Looking back on my “climbing career” (what I like to call it…), I have figured out the only thing that was holding me back was an invisible ceiling that I set myself.  When I first moved to the Sierra, I broke into leading 5.10 trad.  By the end of the summer, my man and I called ourselves “well-oiled-five-ten-climbing-machines”.  When it came to five eleven, we just looked the other way to the next splitter five ten crack.

Its just a few months after our self-declaration of being well oiled machines… I had fallen in love with a different climbing partner.  This climbing partner was a 5.12 climber and was warming up on 5.11s.  I couldnt let my pride get in my way (tongue in cheeck),  so naturally, I would attempt to lead these climbs also.  I jumped a whole number grade in one month. I went from onsighting 10c to getting 11c after a few goes.  I had always had it within my ability to climb at this grade, I’d just never had tried because of my conscious telling me not to.

Now, here I am in the southeast.  I dont feel like I am any stronger or a better climber than what I was when I lived in the East Side, but I am warming up on 11cs and almost sending 5.12s (if I could only focus long enough to give some climbs a second try).  If I were to stay here in the southeast and be a sportsclimber, I would try to get a 5.13.  But, other types of climbing and areas of the U.S. are pulling me away.

Dreaming big is my point.  You have to aim high. You only get to live once and to not accomplish all that you want and are capable of doing is a shame. But, you must climb the mountain inorder to get to the top.  Yes, I had to be a well-oiled 5.10 climbing machine before I became the 5.11 allstar.  And inorder for me to onsight 5.12, I will have to keep climbing 5.11s and trying 5.12s.

My newest dream is to climb the Evolution Traverse in a day.  I have spent several seasons in the Sierra working on my movement over rock and route finding skills.  I have done many tandem solos and some solos.  I dont like to carry weight, so I do everything fast and light.  Attempting the Evolutions in a day suits my style.  I am trying to figure out my “path” to the Evolutions and is it exhilerating to imagine all the different ways to get ready for a climb.  Even if I dont accomplish my goal, the process of dreaming, planning and making it happen, makes it worth it.  I havent slept in weeks because I am so wound up.  I still have two months to go until departure, so I hope I’ll setlle down soon.

Dreaming is what I live for. It keeps me psyched and happy.  There is only a breif period of depression that I get when I am all done with the dream, but its only temporary because its only a matter of days or weeks before I am inspired again to do something totally awesome!!!!