There’s no such thing as a free Lunch…

Posted on May 4, 2013 by buehlgnar

But nobody said anything about there not being a free breakfast!!!

So, I have been in pinches before, many times in fact. I’ve worked minimum waged jobs in the outdoor industry for years, just making enough to get by and getting good enough deals on gear to spend the rest of my money. This has left me in situations where I wasn’t sure where I was going to get my next meal. This is a horrible position that I ufortunatnly had to experience again and again. Its kind of dehumanizing and one of the ugliest parts about being a dirtbag climber with pro deals.

So, I resorted to eating contenental breakfasts at the local hotels. This is risky business, because it is ILLEGAL. It is infact stealing. So on that I note, I dont recomend anyone do this.  But if you find yourself in a bind and need to go against my advice, then keep these few pointers in mind.

First of all, figure out where the local hotels keep their breakfast. It is best if you dont have to walk by the front desk. The best one I used to go to required me to walk through the front doors, but it was a quick left turn into the feeding room, so it was easier for me to sneak by.  Some days, luck would be in my favor and someone would be exiting the side door as I was locking up my bike.  Success!

Second of all, dress to impress. Dont let them know you are living out of your car. Comb your hair, put on some clean clothes, and even some heels and make up woulnt hurt.  Dress like you belong there, but dont cause any unnecessary attention your way.

Third, when you find a good hotel to hit up, do it several days in a row verses sporadically throughout the week.  If you were really staying there, you’d go to breakfast each morning, right? Most people stay anywhere from 1 to 3 days at a hotel.  But, the more you are seen, the more chances of someone talking to you, which you need to avoid.

Fourth, find a hotel with the good breakfast.  Some just put out coffee and donuts…. not worth the risk.  My favorite is the ones with the waffle makers.  Yummmmmmy!

Thats all my advice (which is not to do this) for the young. starving, dirtbag population.  May the odds be in your favor.

hungergames

Be like Katniss: smart, witty and rebellious.

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Food: Burritos

Posted on May 2, 2013 by buehlgnar

Burritos are by far my most favorite food to eat, anywhere. They are so easy to make and there are endless possibilities for variations. I don’t think I need to give detailed instructions on making a burrito, instead I’d like to open up discussion on variations.

My favorites:

Yam-tastic deliciousness
Cooked yams (skillet or mashed) with steamed kale and black beans

Mouthfuls of Spinach
Add a crap ton of steamed spinach to the classic bean and rice burrito… Yummy!

Breakfast burrito
Take your leftovers from the night before an scramble in some eggs

Bacon: My favorite ingredient to add.

Since I am a bachelorette, I cook single meals all the time, but I suffer from PTSD from past relationships and end up cooking enough for two… or three or four… This allows creativity when cooking up burrito leftovers. I try to add something new to my burritos each time I cook them up.  For example adding a new vegetable or meat is a good way to spice things up.  Add more beans or try a different starch/grain. One important thing I learned reheating carne asada leftovers, is to keep the already cooked meat separate from the new item. I found that each time I reheated the meat, it got tougher and eventually was over cooked.

Mexican Restaurants:

You will find the best ingredients for your burritos at these stores.  Most of the time, they are somewhat hidden and unassuming.  But, its worth taking a chance on, you most likely will leave with some authentically delicious ingredients.

Be sure to always have salsa on hand. Buy it fresh, the jar stuff just doesn’t taste the same.

Be careful about what tortillas you buy. Most flour ones have a car ton of preservatives and unknown ingredients in them. Corn ones are good but be sure to heat them up first and get the smaller taco size because they are prone to break. I look for fresh flour tortillas from the local Mexican market but have found sprouted grain, organic ones in the frozen department near the frozen bread in healthy food stores.

There you go, burritos in a nutshell. Now go and explore this wonderful world and let me know if you come up with any awesome variations!!!!

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Dating a Climbing Partner

Posted on April 30, 2013 by buehlgnar

In the woman’s climbing world, finding a climbing partner can often feel like dating. This is a double edged sword because I have personally experienced some of the best relationships with my climbing partners, but suffered some of the worst breakups ever.

As far as I am concerned, there are two types of women climbers: a climber’s girlfriend and bad-ass lady climbers.  We all start somewhere.  Most of us, as climber’s girlfriends, and it is our choice when the relationship ends whether or not to take it to the next level.  I am happy to say that I went there and I am still going.  Becoming stronger and more independent as the days roll by.  Climbing has significantly improved my life and personality.  I hope that many climbing girlfriends can tap into this awesomeness and become the bad-ass climber that is hiding inside.

From what I have witnessed, being a climber’s girlfriend is somewhat awful.  Not only do you have a completely self-absorbed, egotistical boyfriend who will always choose climbing before you, but when you break up, you stop climbing.  Not to mention this breeds the worst climbing partnership out there.  I cannot tell you how many times I have seen the guy yelling at the girl to do something she doesn’t want to do.  Point blank, climbing brings out insecurities in people and couples.  Most of the time these fights end in tears and is embarrassing for everyone.  Everyone has to learn how to manage fear during their climbing experience and if you have some asshole yelling at you while you are scared out of your whits…. it isn’t good.

Whitney- Jeff thinking about Marmots

This is how most of my climbing partners feel after I date them…

Ok, now that we have a climber’s girlfriend out of the way.  Lets move on to what bad-ass climbers need to take into consideration before making the commitment.

Pros:

You develop a really strong bond.  Nothing like trusting your life in the hands of your lover.  Intensity on the rock often translates to intensity in the bed (or van).

You never need to look for an adventure partner.  Oh, you wanna go to Zion?  How about Yosemite?  You have a dependable and willing partner who you love to be with to count on for your climbing needs.  Planning trips  become fun.  You two get to manifest anything your heart desires.

You climb harder when you are with someone you are attracted to.  I get the best energy from my significant other.  When I am with my love, I often feel invincible.

Climbers have really nice bodies.  Toned and fit, its nice and we are spoiled.

Honeymoons.  I think if I were to marry a climber, we’d have the best honeymoon ever and every anniversary (or every five) after that will be spent climbing somewhere cool.  I’m thinking Mediterranean honeymoon, with expeditions to Cirque of the Unclimbables, Pakistan, Krygyzstan, Venezuela, for the years to follow.

Cons:

When you break up, you lose your climbing partner.  This is the worst part, and I seriously have been reconsidering dating my climbing partners due to this major cost. Sometimes a relationship needs to stick to the wall and not move into bed. And its essential to know when you must make this decision.

Intensity on the rock can translate to intensity in fights. Now, I cant really say if I would fight with a non-climbing boyfriend like I do with my climbing boys. But hot damn.  One of the most ridiculous fights I have ever gotten into was over bouldering at the Buttermilks or climbing trad at Little Egypt. F*(&ing Aye@!  If he would have told me he wanted to go bouldering before I set my hopes on sending Espresso Crack, the whole fight could have been avoided.  Ok, this con might just be a personality disorder of mine.

You get stuck in couple-dom, where you spend ALL THE TIME TOGETHER.  You eat sleep, climb and party with your partner.  All your favorite things to do are also his favorite things to do.  This can be great for a couple, but it can also lead to super intense relationships that burn out.

Forget about going on dates.  Long days spent together and penny pinching often leaves no room for going on dates.  There’s no dinner and a movie, unless you grab a bit to eat after a day of climbing, which in my opinion, doesn’t count as a date.

How to make a climbing partner into a lasting boyfriend?

This is what I am trying to figure out.  All of my relationships have failed.  Either due to selfish goals (of mine or his) or too much intensity.   I am now trying to learn to screen my partners.  First step is to do day trips together.  See how that goes.  Normally, I can tell from these day trips whether or not I am attracted to the person.

Next step is to go on an overnight trip together.  This is a very important step that shouldn’t be missed.  You will get rid of so much pressure that could later come up in the relationship by simply doing this before things got intimate.  Plus, s/he gets to see the cowlicks and snot hanging out of your nose before s/he gets a chance to create this perfect picture of you in her/his mind. You dont want him/her making high expectations, after all we’re all dirty and smelly climbers when it boils down to it.

If you can make it through a weekend trip, and still think somewhat highly of him/her/eachother, then he’s a maybe.  Moving slowly is the key.  The climbing community is normally really small, so you have to be sure you pick the right mate for you.  You might only get one shot at this.

Breaking Up

The worst part ever, non climber or climber.  There is no good way to go about this.  Its going to hurt.  You cannot keep climbing together.  It doesn’t work, no matter how much you want it to.  I used to pride myself in thinking that I could maintain friendship with my exes, but that is bullshit.  Someone got their ego bruised and seeing each other only rips back open the wound. But on the other hand, you have to accept that you will see your ex all the time.  You either have to make amends, forgive or be forgiven, and then move on.  They will date other hot women climbers and you will find another stud to push you to the next level in climbing.

So is it worth it?

I dont know.  I cant imagine life with a non-climber.  But this has a lot to do to the fact that I have devoted my life to climbing.  This devotion doesn’t leave much room for anything else.  I really love dating my climbing partner.  My crushes bring me the most joy ever and I do want to spend all my time with them. There is no such thing as too much time together when I am in love, because that’s all I want.  I am the type of person that likes to devote my time and energy to a few people.  Then they can get the best of me, and I am not spread too thin.  I wouldnt trade the past 5 years of my life for anything.  I’ve had two serious climbing partners and they were worth the pain, although, I am not sure if they’d agree.  I’ve had a handful of non-serious boyfriends and they were pretty annoying.  It boils down to making sure you are picking the right one to begin with.

Climbing culture breeds a difficult bunch of people.  We are independent, strong, often opinionated, and love to heckle.  Some of us come from difficult backgrounds and enjoy living on the fringe of society.  I always try to go against the grain of popular culture whenever possible.  I have also found that there are many narcissistic people who excel in climbing.  These characteristics often making having a lasting relationship hard.

Best of luck to all the climbers out there dating.  May the odds be in your favor.

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Letting Go Manifesto

Posted on April 30, 2013 by buehlgnar

I’ve suffered heartbreak, death of several friends and extreme boredom from lack of snow and dead-end jobs. I made the decision to move back East and it has been the best decision I have ever made in my life. This is a journal issue I wrote right before I moved.

“So, it’s been hard. A huge tidal wave of emotion and stress is continuously slapping me in the face.

The emotions of letting go of something that felt so right. The stress of getting rid of personal objects that I’ve collected. The saying goodbye to those who were such good friends to me. Its all so hard and I’m upset. I cry almost everyday.

But, I know this is the right decision. I cannot grow in the way I want to grow here in Bishop. I’m not that shining star who is going to make change here. its changing me. I’ve had to make too many compromises inorder to live and thrive here.

I am tired of running and searching. I just want to be. Be free and have the opportunity to study and experience all that I want. To embrace my family and friends and to be part of their lives again. I’m going somewhere where change is accepted and encouraged. I will grow as a person in ways that i want to. I will face the excitement of the unknown. Meet new people. Experience different culture. Be closer to family. See my friends that I havent seen for so long.

I want to live a balanced, healthy and meaningful life. This doesn’t mean I have to live in the most beautiful places out there. All places have their own beauty. I dont want to search anymore, but I dont want to lose all that has been important to me.

I am trying out Asheville. I am not putting all my cards down like I did for Bishop, but I’ll put some down. Take a chance, absorb what I can, Grow in a positive way, to myself, my family, the earth and its people. Be the beauty I wish I could see in people and community.”

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Vibrations

Posted on April 30, 2013 by buehlgnar

Here is a post I have on my other blog that I just love. This blog is more about natural healing and herbs. Here is a link if this interests you http://secretsofthebeehive.blogspot.com/

Today’s lecture in Physics class was about sound waves. What should have only of lasted one lecture, lasted three, because my teacher seems to go on a tantrum about one thing or another every five minutes.

The main concept he was trying to teach today was about interference: constructive, destructive and then most importantly, resonance. John Graham states that “resonance is the dramatic amplification of vibrational amplitude due to a for vibrating an object at its characteristic frequency.” He just explains that when two objects are vibrating in the same frequency, it can create resonance. This is unlike complete constructive interference where two waves heading towards each other just pass through unaffected and in complete destructive interference, when two waves of opposite (i.e. positive and negative) amplitude pass through each other, they wipe each other out, the waves disappear.

Resonance is fascinating though. This is how the opera singer breaks a wine glass, how we get sound out of an organ pipe, how we can broadcast onto the radio, etc. Graham even showed us a video of a bridge that collapsed in Tacoma due to the sound waves created by the wind resonating with the structure of the bridge. Check it out, here is a link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P0Fi1VcbpAI

Later today, I decided to read the chapter about Quantum Physics by Carol Davis in her book “Complementary Therapies in Rehabilitation; Evidence for Efficacy in Therapy, Prevention and Wellness.” This particular aspect of Quantum physics had to do with the The Zero Point Field theory about the empty space around us, which we call space or air which is. in fact, is full of energy. For example, when I try a boulder problem, sometimes I climb harder than I am normally capable of. I almost on sighted Junior’s Achievement in my work clothes one day. I went back to that same problem a month later, and couldn’t even get off the ground.

The Zero Point Field argues that we can get energy from the space around us. My favorite explanation is “this subtle energy matrix that surrounds us, which we move about in, much like the water that surrounds swimming fish, influences our physiological and biological systems in ways that are just beginning to be understood. It all has to do with the science of bioenergetics and vibrations” (Davis). The book also cites a study done by A.V. Hill (Nobel Prize physiologist and biophysicist) and D.R. Wilkie who proved that “the amount of energy that is needed to drive muscle contraction exceeds the amount of energy produced by the mitochondria.”(Davis).

Imagine everyone in the world vibrating, producing waves. We all have these vibrations coming out of us. Sometimes when they interact with other vibrations, they are complete destructive interference, canceling eachother out. These are people who just completely turn you off. Dont want to be around them, dont want to talk to them. Sometimes its unexplainable why I or you or anyone would feel this way. its just how it is. Most of the time, vibrations between people are complete constructive interference… meaning that what we say to each other doesnt really stick with us. We leave the conversation or interactions more or less unaltered. I would consider these friends and acquaintances But in some rare occasions (like when the tacoma bridge resonated with the 40 mph wind), resonance happens!

So this proves that I, by myself, do not have the capabilities to climb Junior’s Achievement on my own. It was the vibrating crowd of people resonating with me that day and the energy in the Zero Point Field gave me the moment of lightlessness and energy to send (well, get off the ground) a normally impossible problem. I dont know if anyone reading this has been to the Buttermilks, but the place is magical. The zero point energy is on High there!

New vibrations are passing through me everyday in North Carolina. I’ve been able to tap into the Zero Point Field once again and have found other people that resonate with me. I finally got a 5.12 clean this year!

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Mountain Profile: Mt. Russell

Posted on April 23, 2013 by buehlgnar
Image

Mt. Russell

Mt. Russell is one of my favorite Sierra Peaks.  I first laid eyes on this beaut when I climbed Mt. Whitney in 2007. When I think of Mt. Russell, I think of hand jams. There are splitter cracks that shoot up the face southeast face, mainly concentrated to the left of Mithral Dihedral, which is the corner system on the lower left of the mountain prictured above.  Mithral Dihedral itself is a beautiful corner system that goes at 5.10 for about 400 feet or so.

When I climbed Mithral Dihedral with Allen Higgenbothem in 2009, things went unexpectantly.   The whole trip was spurr of the moment, to tell you the truth.  We drove down there after meeting in Tuolomne Meadows one evening and hiked halfway in at night, woke up the next morning and finished the hike up to Iceberg lake.  We brought enough stuff for just two days.

We climbed Western Front the first day.  We were punked out by some flat landers, who had been spraying about their mountaineering experience the night before, and we let them go first.  Turns out, they werent used to the elevation and were awful at route finding.  We ended up getting stuck behind them, sitting for hours at each belay.  They refused to let us pass.

Watching them climb the upper crux was epic and it scared the shit out of me.  It is a 10c lie back pitch where you dont get good pro for a good 10-15feet (keep in mind this is at nearly 14,000′).  The guy got up there and he was just thrashing up there, he had elvis leg and the whole body shakes/convulsions.  It was terrifying.  I thought he was going to fall.  He got a piece in was lowered and then his partner proceded to do the same.  Then, it was my turn.  I got up there, climbed up the corner and then got to the spot where I could place a good piece of gear, but I couldnt get it clipped.  I was way too gripped and couldnt do it.  I grabed the piece and cliped the rope in.  I have been weary of lie backs ever since.  We toped out as the sun was setting and did the tricky route finding off the mountain in the dark.  We still curse those men who slowed us down that day.

IMG_1826

Allen and I getting psyched for tomorrow’s climb up the Western Front.

The next day, we made the decision to stay.  We wanted to climb Mithral Diehedral and it turned out that one of our new friends up there got altitude sickness and left all their food with us.  We looked at this as an opportunity, so I ditched out on work and we stayed for another day.

Mithral Dihedral had been calling me to climb her ever since I saw her in 2007.  It is a very aesthetic feature on Russell that you can see clearly from the top of Whitney. Allen got the first pitch in the corner.  We were using 70m double ropes and Allen wanted to climb the full 70m length of the rope.  Well, if anyone has ever belayed for a pitch thats 70m, it takes FOREVER!  I was pertched on a little belay ledge and my ass fell asleep.  As a shifted my weight, trying to get some blood flow to my cheecks, somehow my approach shoe came unclipped and tumbled off of my tiny ledge!  Nooooooooo! I looked for it on the descent, hiking back to the base of the climb, but no luck.  We had to hike out that night, so Allen, being the gentleman that he is, loaned me his climbing shoe to hike out in.  I owe him a resole.

Well, this story is not over.  As we returned back to our base camp, we noticed there was a ranger sniffing around.  We had left out a jar of honey and so he had been waiting for us to return.  We tried to explain to him that we left the honey out because it was in a sealed bottle and no martmot would be able to open the jar.  None-the-less, he had no symphany and proceded to ask us for our permits.  BUSTED!  We had no I.D.s, no Permits and in violation of the food storage law.  Dang it.  We were fined about $300 and told to get outa there.  And this was cutting us a break, we were originally looking at $600 in fines.

 A few weeks later, Allen’s friends from the Valley found my shoe and returned it to me. We had seen them on Fishhook Arete while we were climbing Mithral, and convinced them to come climb the Dihedral the next day.  They found the shoe wedged in a crack near the start of the climb.

Mt. Russell is magical.  That weekend was one of the best weekends of my life.  Did I mention there were meteor showers at night while we were there?

I’ve been back, on my own, to climb the East Ridge, which is a fun 3rd class ridge line.  This line will take you to Russell’s second peak on the right.  The approach is from Upper Boyscout Lake. Head up the broken cliff line to the east of the lake.  Traverse to the far east side of the scree field and scramble up on whatever solid rock you can find. You’ll make your way back westward to the top of this ridge. If you glance to the East, you’ll see another mountain peak that you can go bag (the name escapes me right now).  But, keep heading west and you’ll be able to see Russell’s ridge line from there.  Try to stay true to the ridge.  If there are any difficult sections, drop down to the east side and bypass it.

IMG_0320

Mt. Russell’s East Ridge Line

Fishhook Arete is a classic climb that goes at 5.9.  This is probably the most popular route which climbs another aesthetic feature on the mountain.  You can see it in the photos of Russell at the top of this page.  Find Mithral Dihedral and look for the ridge/arete that is to the lower right and goes to the top of the Mountain (to the left peak). Most of it goes at low fifth class and is blocky.

I would love to go back to attempt the link up  between Star Trekkin, Bloody Corner and Mithral Diehdral, in day (car to car).  All are on the same face and go at 5.10.  If you are feeling good, add on Fishhook Arete.

For more beta on any of these routes, I recommend Peter Croft’s book, “The Good, The Great and The Awesome”. Falcon also released a guide for the High Sierra (has really good historical information in it) and so did Super Topo (only look at this if you like being spoon-fed beta).

IMG_0324

Me on top of Mt. Russell. Thats Mt. Whitney behind me.

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To dog or not to dog

Posted on April 16, 2013 by buehlgnar

I have three simple rules I live by:

No mortgage

No kids.

No dogs

Limiting responsibilities is key to be a successful dirtbagger.  Less money you have to pour into something, the less you have to work.

Dogs.  I LOVE them.  They make great companions, cuddlers and entertainment.  But it comes at a cost.

Dogs at the crag.  Disclaimer: I have seen many well behaved dogs at the crag.  Ones that just hang out, near their owners, not bothering anyone else.  But when you first get a dog, its not like that.  One of the worst things a dog does when you climb is FREAK OUT!  They bark and bark and bark!  I like to put words in my dog’s barks and I believe they are trying to tell us: “What are you doing??!  You’re Crazy! Get Back Down Here!” I once had a mean lady tell me that my dog was “Never going to be a crag dog.”  Well,  Zephyr really wasn’t my dog and he is actually a good crag dog these days… somewhat.

IMG_0204

The worst crag dog ever?? No Way, not Zephyr!!!

Zephyr, Zephyr, Zephyr.  This is my friend, Tori’s, dog.  I watched Zephyr for a winter season in Bishop and we fell in love.  But, Zephyr caused ruckus everywhere we went and soon had a reputation… lucky for him, he was also the cutest dog ever, so everyone forgave him and I hope they forgave me too.

Even though dogs get to hang outside when you take them to the crag, this sometimes isn’t what they want to be doing.   Hanging out for hours in one location really gives a dog some time to cause some trouble.  These troubles could include: rolling in poop or dead animals, chasing squirrels and eating lizards, playing with other dogs. But, its really not that bad for a dog at the crag.  They just have to get used to it, which only takes a little bit of time.  Many haters out there might complain about dogs destroying the underbrush.  This happens. It becomes a problem when they destroy sage brush or endangered species that take awhile to grow back.

Dogs aren’t allowed in National Parks. This rule sucks.  But Yosemite, Zion, all those awesome places I love to climb are strict about the dog rule.  You can have them on a leash in developed areas and in campgrounds, but nowhere else.  It is also illegal to leave your dog unattended in a car. When I worked as a Park Aide at D.L. Bliss State Park in Tahoe, one of the Ranger’s main responsibility was “rescuing” dogs left in the car.  This involved them breaking a window of vehicles and trips to the pound.  They are serious out there about their dog safety.  Finding a place to keep the dog is hard to do.  You either have to spend some scrilla for the doggie day care or you simply just cant go to these places.  Dog owners adjust and plan their destinations and their lives around their dogs.  Or, if you are a domesticated “dirtbagger”, I guess you can just leave your doggie at home.

Dogs are dirty.  They like to roll in stinky things, they shed and they never take off their coats at the door (its a joke).  They track dirt with them whereever they go.  Which isnt too bad, but just adds to the challenge of staying clean when your in small places.  One good thing about cleanliness and dogs are that they clean up any food scraps and help lick dishes clean.  No more food getting hard and crusty on your dishes!

The way I cope with not having a dog, is by watching everyone else’s.  I love dog sitting and people love it when I watch their dogs.  I have enough dogs in my life to keep me happy.  I get to do all the fun things with them and not have to worry about the responsibilities.

Gizmo

One of the coolest dogs I’ve watched, Gizmo.

So in conclusion, dogs are awesome.  I love them and think everyone should have one.  But if you are living out of your vehicle, traveling and climbing, then a dog might not be the best option.  Take a look at your lifestyle and figure out the amount of responsibility you’d like to take on.  If you are traveling the world and need a dog sitter for more than a few weeks at a  time, you  might want to consider not having a dog.  If you’d do anything for love and change your lifestyle for your doggie, then maybe you are ready for one. After all, I love those little furry devils, but I am just not ready for one in my life yet.

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Food: The Wonderful World of Mac

Posted on April 12, 2013 by buehlgnar

I have to give credit to Sarah Violet for this recipe.  She is a crusher climber friend who I met at Humboldt State, who is currently living in the Tahoe Basin.

This is a super fast, super delicious meal to eat thats packed full of carbs and protein, perfect for rebuilding muscle and restoring energy.

Cook a box of mac (kraft is a good go to and so is Velveta), after mixing in the cheese, add a can a chili and heat.  Voila!  Theres a delicious meal in ten minutes!  You can add broccoli, tomatoes, bacon bits, hot sauce, real cheese, etc. to make it better.

Warning: This dish doesn’t taste as good in your kitchen as it does in you van or at a camp.

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Healing your body.

Posted on April 10, 2013 by buehlgnar

You must take care of you body.  You only get one and its expensive to fix once you go past the breaking point.

Lets start on the surface with your skin:

Now how many people out there have seen the older generation looking like lizards because they failed to wear sunscreen and a hat?  The easiest way to protect your face is by putting a freaking hat on!  Not only is this a form of protection but can also be used as an expression of personality.  Another good way to protect your skin is by having a sun shirt.  This is a lightweight/synthetic white shirt that has long sleeves and could have a hoodie (I am hoodie biased, I love them).

Living outside and climbing all the time will cause you to scrap yourself up.  Its inevitable.  I am a strong believer in salve.  Salve is expensive these days (soon to change due to the release of my line “Salv’ation”), so I make my own. This is how:

Take some Olive Oil and infuse herbs into it (you choose) either by using a stove top or throw it in a mason jar and put in the sun for a couple of weeks, shaking daily.  Strain the herbs and melt beeswax into the oil, (about a 1 to 4 ratio is a good amount to start with). Add some Vitamin E and essence oil.  Put it in a jar, give it to your friends and never leave home without it.

Body Maintenance:

A healthy body will allow you to be a stronger and resilient climber.  The biggest mistake climbers make is not stretching.  Stretching is good because it makes us stronger.  We increase our range of motion which in turns allows our muscles to develop better.  Have you seen the stiff boulderer in the gym or the boulder field?  They walk around like stiff football players.   Its only a matter of time before something snaps.

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My sister, Julie, showing off her moves in Seward, AK.

Yoga.  The best way to stretch.  There are infinite types out there (especially if you live in Asheville, NC).  There is a style that matches your personality.  My favorite is Bikram.  I get intensity, cardio and a deep stretch all within 90min.  Last fall, I signed up for the introductory week because my elbows were hurting. By the end of that week, my elbows stopped hurting and have been good ever since.  I am now using Bikram to break up the scar tissue in my ankle from an old ski injury I have.  But Bikram is intense and not for everyone.  Try a simple Vinyasa or my other favorite is Ashtanga.

Protect your shoulders.  Dont deadhang from your joints, always keep those muscles engaged when climbing, even when shaking out.  Keep this in mind when you do your hangboard exercises.

Get some theraband.  You can do several simple rotator cuff exercises with your band just outside your van, no house or fancy equipment needed.  Here’s a link to a pdf file with some to do: http://orthodoc.aaos.org/jessmkirby/Rotator%20Cuff%20Strengthening%20Exercises.pdf

Buy a theracane.  This will help release those tight muscles in your back and shoulders without having to rely on another person to do it for you.  I saw them at EMS the other day, they are on the internet and also at some stores.  If you want to really learn how to use it effectively, buy a book on Trigger Point therapy.

Feet:

Keep your nails trimmed.

Lets talk about the fungus, as in nail fungus.  I just found out about this shit and its actually more common than I ever thought.  When you wear too small of shoes for long periods of time, it can damage your toes and nails.  One or two nails may begin to grow in thicker than the rest.  Thats the nail fungus.  Go to your local CVS pharmacy or something like it, and pick up some over-the-counter medication for it.  Its the most economically and effective way of fighting it.

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This is what my feet looked like after climbing a mountain in rental ski boots. Not worth it.

I have these weird spurs on the back of my heels from wearing rental ski boots.  They freaking hurt!  I have yet to figure out what to do about these, but I know that western medicine would simply cut them off via surgery.  I have seen people with this done and it looks painful.  Not interested.  I am going to try acupuncture and see if the Chinese have a better, less painful, solution.

To all those boulderers who wear their shoes so small they have hammer toes.  STOP! I have met many people in the previous generation that now have arthritis in their toes from these shoes!   If you must wear your shoes this small, only wear them for small periods of time. When I buy climbing shoes, I size them to where my large toe can lie flat, the rest of them can curl inwards.  I have the egyptian toes where my second and third toe is longer than the first.  I also have one larger foot than the other… which kind of sucks.  But maybe Ill blog about that later : )

In closing, just remember: If you take care of your body, your body will take care of you.

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Lucky the Dog is saying that you better check yourself before you wreck yourself!

 

Posted in climbing, climbing shoes, health, nail fungus, rotator cuff, salve, theraband, theracane, Uncategorized, yoga | 5 Comments

Hygiene

Posted on April 9, 2013 by buehlgnar

pig pen

One of the biggest challenges of living outside four walls is keeping yourself clean.

Keeping the stench down… My newest favorite way to refresh myself in the hot blazing sun is by what I call a “Shower in a Bottle.”  Find a little 4oz spray bottle at your local Whole Foods or health food store, fill it with water then add a few drops of your favorite essence oil.  Not only will this spray cool you down and smell good but its water, it’ll wash off the dirt, blood and chalk.

Second way to stay fresh is by keeping a baby wipe stash. Use these in your really stinky areas…  This is just a short term solution, putting off the inevitable   But the longer you can put it off, the better.

Keep water (5 galon jug) in you vehicle and some Dr. Bronner’s soap.  Always wash your hands when you live outside (and inside, for all that it matters). I try to keep the water-less antimicrobrial soap handy, but I really dont like that stuff.  But, its better than nothing. Super important to wash your hands before cooking and eating.

Finding Showers… is actually not as hard as it might seem.  A common spot for public showers might be a public pool, University, campground, laundromat, yoga studio, or a local climber’s house.  If you really dont know where to go, just ask the gear shop.  Most showers are pretty cheap, typically no more than five bucks.

Clean Clothes... ugh.  Going to the Laundromat is a pain in the ass, but can be a great rest day activity.

Certain fabrics will stay cleaner for longer though.  A lot of outdoor companies have picked up on the fact that we dont always wash our clothes on a regular basis, so they have found ways to minimize the stench.  Patagonia Capilene use to smell AWFUL!!!  I remember one of my favorite climbing shirts reeking all the time, even after I’d wash it. They have since changed their capilene… or maybe I just don’t smell as much????  Anyways, wool is a great smell reducer.  It has naturally occurring bacteria in the fabric that eats odors, or so they say. Some of my merino wool does end up stinking pretty bad.  You can just wash it by hand in some water though.  No need to pull out the detergent and cash. Gramicci also has a NPT line of clothing made with hemp that also reduces smell.

Another note about clothing.  I like to wear the same clothes, day after day after day after day.  I change my underwear and socks, but that’s it.  I tell myself this is ok because I was brought up watching cartoons, and they NEVER changed their clothes, so why should I?  Also, this makes sure that your clothes are actually really dirty before you through them in the stink bag.  Even with my street clothes, I like to wear them several times before I actually wash them.

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Posing on a sweet block on top of Cathedral ledge in Tuolumne. Stinking is worth the views.

Ok, I hope that helps with some people on staying clean while playing hard in the outdoors.  Anyone else have any good suggestions?

Posted in climbing, clothings, dirtbag, Gramicci, sacrifice comforts, stinking, Uncategorized | Tagged | Leave a comment